So, you’re about to buy your first car. Exciting, right?

So, you’re about to buy your first car. Exciting, right?Also slightly terrifying. And that’s totally okay! Getting your own car opens up a world of freedom (goodbye relying on lifts and awkward bus schedules), but it also comes with a minefield of decisions. Especially if you're looking at second-hand cars.

The truth is, buying used can be a brilliant move. But it can also go completely sideways if you don’t know what you're doing. In fact, the average Brit spends around £3,000 fixing hidden issues on a dodgy used car. That's no small change.

But here’s the good news: you don’t need to be a mechanic or some kind of car whisperer to avoid the common pitfalls. What you need is a little prep, a sharp eye for detail, and a bit of curiosity. Let’s walk through it together.

Before You Even Leave the House

Check the MOT and TaxFirst thing’s first: don’t waste your time on a car that’s not road legal. Head over to gov.uk and plug in the registration number to check the MOT history. You’ll see when the next MOT is due, whether it’s passed cleanly before, or if it’s barely scraped through with a list of advisories longer than your to-do list.While you’re there, also double-check that the car’s taxed and not declared SORN (that’s Statutory Off-Road Notification for you).

Ask for the V5CThis one’s a must: make sure the seller has the V5C, the vehicle log book. It proves they actually own the car and have the right to sell it. No V5C? Walk away. There are enough horror stories about stolen vehicles that you don’t want to be starring in the next one.

Pack Like a DetectiveBring a torch (your phone torch won't cut it for under-the-car stuff), gloves (you’ll thank me when you’re checking oily engine bits), a notepad, and your phone for taking pictures. Also, let the seller know you’ll want to take the car for a proper test drive. It’s reasonable to ask that the car has some fuel, water, and oil in there too.

Know What It’s WorthJump on sites like AutoTrader, Parkers, or even the DVLA’s valuation tool to get an idea of what the car should cost. Things like mileage, service history, and the number of previous owners can affect the value. Be mindful of new registration periods in March and September; they often shuffle prices up or down.

Knowing roughly what the car should cost means you won’t get rinsed — but it also helps you spot a deal that’s too good to be true. And if it's too cheap, there's usually a reason.

The Physical Inspection (a.k.a. Trust Your Gut)

Now you’re standing in front of the car, and it’s time to dig deeper. Resist the urge to be distracted by shiny dashboards and flashy colours. Here’s what you need to look at:

• Start With a WalkaroundDo this in daylight if at all possible — rain and dusk are experts at hiding flaws. Look for rust (especially around wheel arches, door sills, and boot edges), scratches, or strangely shiny panels that might suggest a recent respray.

• If you spot bubbling under the paint, that’s rust creeping through. And if a magnet doesn’t stick to certain panels? That could mean body filler – a classic sign of previous damage repairs.

• Tyres Tell a StoryHere’s a quick trick: grab a 20p coin and slot it into the tyre tread. If the outer band of the coin is visible, the tread is too shallow. Legally, it needs to be at least 1.6mm, but most experts suggest 3mm is safer. Uneven tyre wear can also signal suspension or alignment issues, and mismatched tyre brands on the same axle? That might suggest one had to be replaced after an accident or pothole encounter.

• Open EverythingDoors, boot, bonnet — open and close them all. They should move smoothly and evenly. If one needs a shove or swings shut like a wonky kitchen cabinet, that could point to structural issues.

• Run your hand along the edges where panels meet. You shouldn’t feel any ridges or steps. If you do, it might mean the frame’s been knocked out of shape.

• Gut Checks and Red FlagsTrust your instincts here. If something feels off — the seller is too cagey, or the car smells weird (like damp carpets or strong air fresheners masking a deeper issue) — it’s okay to walk away. This isn’t the only car out there.

• If you’re not sure about the car’s mechanical state, take someone who knows cars with you. Or better yet, pay for a pre-purchase inspection. It could cost a bit now, but it’ll save you a fortune later.

Test Drive Tips: It’s More Than Just a Spin

Now that you’ve done the visual checks, it’s time to take the car for a spin.First things first: check that your insurance covers you for test drives. If you’re buying from a dealer, they usually have it covered. For private sales, you might need to arrange temporary cover.

Start the engine from cold if you can — a warm engine might hide problems. Does it start smoothly? Any odd noises? Any warning lights staying on?

Once you’re moving, listen closely. Are there any rattles, clunks, or grinding sounds? Do the gears shift smoothly? Does the steering pull to one side? Try braking gently, then firmly. Does the car stop straight, or does it wobble or squeal?

Turn off the radio and fans for a bit — a silent cabin helps you hear noises you might miss otherwise.

And if the seller insists on driving you around instead of letting you take the wheel? That's a red flag.

Paperwork: Don’t Skip It

If the test drive goes well, it's tempting to get caught up in the excitement. But before you shake hands, go over the paperwork thoroughly.

Check the service history. Are the intervals regular? Is there evidence of work done by reputable garages? Ask about the timing belt replacement if the car's done a fair few miles — those aren’t cheap.

Double-check the V5C. The name and address should match the seller's ID. Also, make sure the VIN (vehicle identification number) on the logbook matches the one under the bonnet and on the dashboard. It's also worth asking for any old MOT certificates, manuals, or spare keys. Missing these could be a bargaining point.

One Last Thing...

Buying your first car should be exciting — and yes, nerve-wracking. But it shouldn’t feel like you're walking into a trap. A little prep, asking the right questions, and being willing to walk away if something doesn’t feel right are your best defense.

So go in with curiosity. Take your time. And if the seats are a bit grubby or the stereo’s a bit naff? Don’t sweat it. Focus on the important stuff. After all, you can always upgrade the stereo. Replacing a gearbox? That's a whole different story.